Whenever assembling a list of London’s best eateries, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred venues. However, situated high among these culinary titans is a modest salonu situated in a far-flung area of northern London.
This little Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent food magazine. This accolade has made the proprietors utterly astonished.
“I am completely shocked,” says the proprietor, referring to his parents’ dedication that led to their small shop earning such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.
The small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its earlier character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” says the owner.
However, it is focused on the food, and this eatery certainly delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a succulent consistency.
It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the flavourful mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped tightly inside.
The wrap is usually eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.
There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.
For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, imparting it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly taste.
Notably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.
While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.
The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.
“I believe what is paramount is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”
This philosophy is echoed by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.
Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at elite establishments. “I feel truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.
Numerous restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.
“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.
This restaurant’s success is set to have meaning outside its own walls. “I think a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the broader significance of this culinary honour.
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